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Flashcards in Waves and Tides Deck (36)
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1
Q

Tides are caused by:

A

The gravitational pull of the moon and the sun

2
Q

Neap tides are when the tidal range is:

A

At its lowest.

3
Q

Neap tides occur at what stage in the lunar cycle?

A

At quarter moons

4
Q

Spring tides occur at what stages in the lunar cycle?

A

At the new moon and the full moon

5
Q

What celestial body has the greatest effect on tides?

A

The moon

6
Q

The Fundamental Equilibrium Tide model is:

A

A theoretical model in which all landmass isremoved from the earth and friction betweenthe seafloor and the water is removed.

7
Q

Spring tides are when the tidal range is:

A

At its highest.

8
Q

Waves that move freely on the oceansurface are called:

A

Progressive waves

9
Q

Forces that return the ocean surfaceto its normal configuration are called:

A

Restoring forces

10
Q

The path of a water molecule in a progressivewave is best described as:

A

A circular orbit in the direction of the wavewith only a slight net forward movement.

11
Q

Waves that are static at intervals and oscillatevertically in between those points are called:

A

Standing waves

12
Q

Standing waves are caused when avertical barrier is located at ______.

A

The crest or trough

13
Q

Wave height is determined by 3 factors. These are:

A

Wind speed, wind duration, and fetch

14
Q

Fetch is defined as:

A

The distance over water that wind blowsin a single direction.

15
Q

A point of almost zero tidal fluctuationon the ocean surface is called:

A

anAmphidromic point

16
Q

In the wave equation, C equals L divided by T.What are the variables C, L, and T?

A

C, L, and T are wave speed, wavelength, andwave period respectively.

17
Q

What kinds of waves transmit energy through all states of matter?

A

Longitudinal waves

18
Q

The two basic types of wave motion formechanical waves are:

A

Longitudinal and Tranverse

19
Q

In a _________ wave the particle displacementis parallel to the direction of wave propagation.The particles do not move with the wave; they simplyoscillate back and forth about their individualequilibrium positions.

A

Longitudinal(Pick a single particle and watch its motion)

20
Q

In a ______ wave the particle displacement is perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation.The particles do not move along with the wave; they simply oscillate up and down about their individual equilibrium positions as the wave passes by.

A

Tranverse

21
Q

What is eustasy?

A

The rise and fall of sea level over time.

22
Q

In an area with mixed semidiurnal tides, how manyhigh tides occur during most days?

A

2

23
Q

When two large waves moving in oppositedirections meet they form a:

A

rogue wave

24
Q

The process of creating a rogue wave is an example of:

A

Constructive interference

25
Q

What is the generating force and the restoring force of seaswell?

A

The generating force is wind and therestoring force is gravity.

26
Q

What is the name for a narrow seaward flow of watercaused by waves breaking in the surf zone andpiling up against the coast?

A

Rip tide

27
Q

No matter which direction the wind is blowing, wavesalways approach a sloping beach about what angleto the shore?

A

90 degrees

28
Q

What happens to the wavelength as an ocean wavemoves from deeper to more shallow water?

A

The wavelength decreases

29
Q

What is the name for tides that occur just after newmoon and full moon, when the gravitation attractionof the sun and moon act in a direct line?

A

Spring tide

30
Q

What are thethree main types of ocean waves?

A

Ripples, seas and swells

31
Q

What is the term for the tidal current that occurswhen the height of the tide is decreasing?

A

Ebb tide

32
Q

An ocean wave will break when the ratio of its height to its length is greater than what?

A

1 to 7

33
Q

What kind of tides dominate the east coast of the US?

A

Semidiurnal

34
Q

What kind of tides dominate the west coast of the US?

A

Mixed

35
Q

What kind of tides dominate the North Pacific?

A

Diurnal

36
Q

Where are the highest average waves recorded?

A

Southern ocean, bellow the Indian Ocean