Fashion
The prevailing style at a given point in time
Classic
enduring styles
Semiotics
science of signs systems
- signs built into clothes we wear
Market Weeks
period of time where clothing companies are ready for buyers to purchase
Trends
Fashion directions
On Trend
timely and following new trends
couture
(for sewing) custom made
- operate a salon
- only industry in Paris
- about 24 salons
couturier (e)
(e) male
the person who sews
pret- a- porter
ready to wear
haute couture
high fashion pret a porter
Fashion variables
- color
- line
- exterior line (silhouette)
- interior line (details)
- texture
- fiber (substance what makes fabric)
- fabric
decollate
neck area
décolletage
away from neckline
Complimentary
sit across/ stand out
*true color
Analogous
colors next to eachother
intensity
strength or weakness of a color
proportion
relationship of the size of the parts to the other parts or to the whole
balance
the concept of visual equilibrium
fad
short term trend
trend
The general direction in which something tends to move
surface interest
(pile for velvet) raised or not
nap
direction of pile (surface interest)
corduroy
width of wale
what direction
hand
the way it feels (leather)
atelier
working studio
bespoke
custom made mens clothes
lesage
beading studio
muslin/torte
fabric used to create patterns (cheap cotton)
Fashion reflects times
- socially
- economically
- politically
- technologically
- culturally
- velblen- theory of leisure class
- trickle down theory
Name the customer
- Size/Fit
- Gender
- Age
- Income
- Disposable Income
- Discretionary Spending
- Geographical Location
- Lifestyle
Untapped Markets
once tapped —> realized market
Niche Market
ex. Wedding, Prom
Charles Worth
First Couturier
Primary Market
fiber
fabric
leather
fur
natural fiber
cotton (staple) -egyptian - pima -sea island hemp linnen (flax) ramie
synthetic
rayon (chemical) polyester (Dacron, Kodel) - denier (thickness) - microfiber nylon spandex (lyrca) acrylic
animal
lanolin (oil) wool (sheep) alpaca cashmere (goat) silk (worm)- filament camels hair angora (rabbit) worsted wood -carded 2 times - removeable of roil ribers
why brand synthetic fibers?
- overcome stigma of synthetics
- company identification
- protect advertising $
Mills
Make Fabrics
spinning —> fabric
Mill types
1 weaving- loom
2 knitting- knitting machine, interlocking loops
greige goods
unfinished fabrics
price goods
finished fabrics
dying natural fibers
stock dying
dying synthetic fibers
solution dying
yarn dying
yarn
fabric
piece dying
printing
converter
buys greige goods —> (piece) finished goods
color ways
a variety of color schemes in a particular pattern created for a textile fabric, carpet, wall covering, etc.
Mill
Burlington weave
-carpet, automobile fabric
Trade shows
IFFY (NYC) Pitti Filati (Florence) Premier Vision (Paris) Bread in Butter (Germany) Semaine du Cuir (Paris) Idea Como (Italy- Lake Como)
Jobber
1) : wholesaler; specifically : a wholesaler who operates on a small scale or who sells only to retailers and institutions
Promotional Companies
cotton inc, wool inc.
leather
skins, hydes
by product meat packaging
fur
pelts
- processing- letting out
- suble
Mens Market
- 35%
- fewer classification
- 2-3 seasons
- more skilled labor
- more tailored garment
Amalgatleted
male garment union
Womens Market
- 65%
- more classigications of goods
- 4-5 seasons
- spring
- fall 1
- fall 2
- holiday
- summer
- resort
ILGWU
womens garment union
contrator
sewing factory
subcontractor
when contractor hires out another factory
-embroidary
Production
reports to merch
Merchandising
put product together
- product dev
- designer
Sales
Account Executive
Marketing
-how to expand share of the market
-advertising promotion
apparel market
- regional showroom
Primary MArket
Farms/Laboratories Fibers Yarns Greige Goods Converters Mills
Secondary Market
Designers
Manufacturers
Contractors
Wholesalers
Retailers
Department Stores Speciality Stores Chain Stores Mail order/ catalogs boutique discount store off price stores factor outlets
More Retailers
Wholesale Clubs Flea Market Mom and Pop Stores Mass Merchants Super Stores Electronic Retailing