Flashcards in Knitwear Production Deck (13)
How is the term 'knitwear' defined?
'Outerwear garments with an integral rib'
How is 'fully-fashioned knitwear' produced?
-knitted in panels to exactly correct size and shape for garment
-knitted on V-beds flats and Cotton's patent frame
-much longer time to knit than knitting lengths of fabric
-little or no yarn wastage therefore good for expensive yarns
How is 'cut and sewn' knitwear produced?
-knitted on body-sized circular, open-width circular, or V-bed flat
-can be knitted in blanket form, tubes of appropriate length, or 'stitch-shaped garment lengths
-relatively cheap and quick (acrylic or cotton commonly used)
-after knitting, fabric is cut and over-locked together
-results in low quality garments bc the stitches are big, seams bulky, lack durability
How is 'whole garment' knitwear produced?
-produced in one piece on knitting machine (new technology)
-often quicker than fashioning panels
-patterning and comfort advantages
-no yarn wastage
-a lot of strain put on yarns in machine so faults are more common
How is JERSEY characterised?
-small stitches and fine yarn
-knitted at much higher rate
How is JERSEY produced?
-on circular machines at high speeds
-tubular form, size varies depending on machine
How is hosiery produced and characterised?
-can be characterised as 'knitwear for legs' (heel and toe have been shaped)
Or 'jersey wear for leg' (basically tube shaped)
-knitted on small diameter circular machines
-then cut and sewn
What are the 5 steps of a CAM system knitting machine?
1. Needle begins with 'old loop' in hook
2. Needle pushed up clearing cam height, tension on old loop causes it to open
3. Needle rises to 'clearing height' so called bc old loop has 'cleared' the latch
4. Needle is moved down through stitch cam. As needle descends through the old loop its latch is closed (by old loop) trapping new yarn in hook
5. Needle is now at 'knock-over depth' so called bc the old loop has fallen off or 'knocked over' the top of the hook.
How does the knock over depth affect the stitch?
The further down the needle descends at knock over depth the longer the strict he will be. This increase in stitch makes length makes the fabric more productive but cheaper and reduces quality.
What is a knit stitch?
When the new yarn is is fed to each needle sequentially and passes from one needle to the next across the machine
What is a Tuck stitch?
-Tuck loops are formed when a new a new yarn is collected in the needle hook without getting rid of the old one first.
- this makes a little pinch in the fabric that can be used to add bulk or texture to the fabric
What are Miss stitches?
-also known as floats
-formed when the needle didn't take any new yarn or get rid of the previously formed loop
- makes fabrics more stable, make little patterns or make coloured patterns