8.1 Coastal processes Flashcards

1
Q

Fetch

A

The distance of sea over which the wind can blow. Coastlines which face a larger ocean have larger fetch.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
2
Q

Wave crest

A

The top of the wave

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
3
Q

Wave trough

A

The low point between two wave crests

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
4
Q

Wave height

A

The difference in height between a wave crest and a wave trough

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
5
Q

Wave length

A

The distance between two wave crests

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
6
Q

Wave period

A

The time taken for a wave to travel through one wave length

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
7
Q

Wave velocity

A

The speed of movement of the wave crest

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
8
Q

Wave frequency

A

The number of waves that break on the beach in a given period of time

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
9
Q

Wave energy

A

Directly related to wave height. Wave energy is released when the wave breaks.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
10
Q

Plunge line

A

The point at which the wave breaks

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
11
Q

Swash

A

The body of foaming water that rushes up the beach when a wave breaks. It obtains its energy from the energy released by the breaking wave.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
12
Q

Backwash

A

The water which returns down the beach after a wave has broken.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
13
Q

Storm waves

A

Large waves, produced by strong winds, blowing from the ocean directly onto the coastline.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
14
Q

Plunging breakers

A

When storm waves break, they become vertical and plunge down onto the beach.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
15
Q

Destructive waves

A

Waves that remove sediment from a beach. They are steep, high waves that have a short wavelength and a high wave frequency. They have a weak swash and strong backwash.

How well did you know this?
1
Not at all
2
3
4
5
Perfectly
16
Q

Swell waves

A

If the wind that created the waves dies down over the ocean, the waves will continue to move in the same direction until they reach the coastline. When they reach the shore they will break gently.

17
Q

Surging breakers

A

A breaking wave that slides or surges up the beach.

18
Q

Constructive waves

A

Low, gentle waves that add sediment to a beach. They have a long wavelength and a low wave frequency. They have a strong swash and weak backwash.

19
Q

Berms

A

Ridges which form at the top of the beach, running parallel to the coastline. They are usually made of stones or shingle and are produced by the fortnightly spring tide.

20
Q

Orthogonals

A

Lines drawn at right angles to the wave crests as they approach the shore. They show how wave energy is concentrated or dispersed.

21
Q

Blowhole

A

A tube that grows upwards through the rocks from the roof of the cave. It is caused by wave quarrying and slowly erodes upwards along a weakness in the rock and eventually breaks through at the top of the cliff.

22
Q

Exfoliation

A

Weathering process which causes rock surfaces to peel.. Caused by expansion and contraction of surface layers of rock on the cliff face.

23
Q

Oxidation

A

Process of chemical weathering, particularly affecting iron minerals where there is addition of oxygen to a mineral.

24
Q

Halophytic

A

Salt-loving

25
Q

Storm beach

A

The top of the beach, formed by stones and pebbles thrown up by strong waves during a storm.

26
Q

Cuspate tombolo

A

When wave refraction causes LSD to operate in opposite directions either side of an offshore island, the beach extends out to the island, joining it to the mainland at low tide.

27
Q

Sediment cells

A

Inputs, outputs and movements of sediment within an area.