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Question 1

A wind-generated wave

Answer 1

A vertical displacement of the surface of a body of water, resulting from the transfer of energy from wind to water surface

Question 2

wave celerity

Answer 2

= wave length/wave period……The speed at which a wave travels

Question 3

Depth a wave can penetrate = ?

Answer 3

0.5L

Question 4

Wave shoaling

Answer 4

Refraction of wave crests due to energy expenditure in the water column. Friction in shallower water causes waves to slow and become deflected.

Question 5

Wave refraction

Answer 5

In shallow water, waves align themselves with underwater contours (“bend around the coastline”)

Question 6

Boundary shear stress

Answer 6

Stress applied at the boundary between sediment and water

Question 7

Critical shear stress

Answer 7

The amount of force required to transport a sediment grain (Mostly determined by grain size)

Question 8

Turbidity Maximum

Answer 8

The boundary between salt and freshwater where most mixing takes place….Increases sediment concentration

Question 9

Turbidity Current

Answer 9

Where river outflow is sediment-laden and more dense than saltwater, so it flows at the bed